Madagascar Weather: from Hot & Dry to Lush & Rainy

If you were in Taolaganaro, Madagascar, last year (2022) for May and June, you would have experienced cold and rainy weather. This year (2023), however, we’ve had heat and drought. In fact, we’ve had pretty much perfect weather for a desert girl from Colorado like myself, cool nights, perfect for sleeping with a duvet, and warm sunny days.

Yesterday was particularly hot and dry. The social enterprise Tatirano where we buy purified rating water for the Cafe Bar Colorado and our drinking water, almost ran out. And then BOOM, out of the blue, around midnight, the monsoon started, and it hasn’t stopped.

School outing to a park yesterday. Hot and dry!
School outing to a park yesterday. Hot and dry!

Madagascar has a diverse range of landscapes, from lush rainforests to hot deserts, and weather conditions can vary greatly depending on the region. When traveling in Madagascar, whether you are staying in a hotel, rental, or camping, you will be happier if prepared for the diverse weather conditions you may encounter.

In the rainforests, the weather is typically hot and humid during the day, with temperatures ranging from 20-30°C (68-86°F); occasionally, it gets hotter and sometimes much colder, in July in the highlands, we can get hail, and even near freezing temperatures!

In general, the nights can be cooler, with temperatures dropping to around 10-15°C (50-59°F); however, in the southern summer, you may encounter nights sticky humid nights without wind. Here in Fort Dauphin/Taolagnaro, that is rare, but in inland, be prepared. Packing lightweight, breathable clothing for the daytime and warm layers for the evenings is important, although you also probably want some light cotton sleepwear for warmer nights!

In the desert regions of Madagascar, the weather can be extremely hot during the day, with temperatures reaching as high as 40°C (104°F). However, temperatures can drop significantly at night, with lows around 5-10°C (41-50°F). Packing sun protection, such as hats and sunscreen, and warm layers for the chilly desert nights is important.

No matter where you are visiting, sleeping in a hotel, private lodging or camping in Madagascar, being prepared for rain is important. Madagascar has a tropical climate, and rain showers can occur at any time of year. Packing waterproof gear, such as raincoats and (if camping) tarps, is important to stay dry during wet weather.

You can ensure a comfortable and enjoyable camping trip by being prepared for the weather conditions you may encounter when camping in Madagascar.

How to Pack

When packing for a trip to Madagascar, it’s important to approach it as if you were going on a camping trip. With diverse landscapes and varying weather conditions, you’ll want to make sure you have the appropriate gear to ensure a comfortable and enjoyable experience.

As with any camping trip, it’s important to consider the climate and pack clothing that is both breathable and appropriate for the temperature. Lightweight, breathable clothing is essential in the hot and humid rainforest regions, while warm layers are necessary for cooler evenings. In the desert regions, sun protection and warm layers are necessary for chilly desert nights.

Additionally, you’ll want to consider other camping essentials such as a good quality tent or hammock, sleeping bag, and camping stove. It’s also important to bring along any necessary camping gear, such as a headlamp, portable water filter, and first-aid kit.

By approaching *any trip* to Madagascar as if it were a camping trip, you’ll be prepared for any weather or environmental conditions that come your way, allowing you to fully enjoy the natural beauty and cultural experiences this unique destination has to offer.

Fort Dauphin: four (yes 4) climates in one!

Mangroves, mountains, beach, forest, city....
Mangroves, mountains, dunes, desert, beach, forest, city…within a 30 to 60 minute drive or paddle!

The Taolagnaro District, Fort Dauphin region of Madagascar, is a unique destination that borders on four distinct climates: desert, beach, mountain, and rainforest. This means that when planning a trip to this region, it’s important to be prepared for various weather conditions.

In desert areas, temperatures can soar during the day and drop significantly at night, so it’s important to pack sun protection and warm layers. A sun hat is a must, as is a water bottle. The beach areas can be hot and humid, so lightweight, breathable clothing is a must. The mountainous regions can be cooler, so warm layers are necessary for comfort. And in rainforest areas, it’s important to pack waterproof gear to stay dry during rain showers.

By being prepared for all of these climates, you’ll be able to fully enjoy all that the Fort Dauphin region has to offer. Whether hiking through mountainous terrain, lounging on the beach, or exploring the lush rainforests, you’ll be ready for anything. So, pack smart and get ready for an unforgettable adventure in this unique and diverse corner of Madagascar.

Best Season to Visit?

Many sites will tell you that Madagascar experiences two distinct seasons: a rainy season from November to April and a dry season from May to October; however, that is not always true. It is important to note that during the rainy season, you can still experience hot and dry weather, especially in the country’s northern, western, and coastal regions, including Fort Dauphin. Conversely, during the dry season, you may experience unexpected rain showers or several days of constant rain.

It’s important to be prepared for the potential for heavy rain during the rainy season and the occasional rain showers during the dry season. This means packing appropriate rain gear such as waterproof jackets, rain pants, and waterproof hiking boots. Packing lightweight, breathable clothing to stay cool in hot and humid weather and warm layers for cooler evenings is also important.

In Fort Dauphin, the ocean water is generally warm from November through March or April, but you will also get higher humidity at this time. And even though it is shorts and flip-flop weather most of the year, ensure you have a warm sweater, and long pants, in your bag!

By being prepared for the varying weather conditions during both the rainy and dry seasons, you can fully enjoy all that Madagascar has to offer. Whether you’re exploring the lush rainforests or lounging on a tropical beach, you’ll be ready for whatever weather comes your way.

Mosquitos

King bed with a mosquito net at Voky Be
King bed with a mosquito net at Voky Be

The mosquito factor is another reason to ensure you have both warm and light weight pants and long-sleeved shirts. These little boogers love to eat your ankles and the backs of your arms and legs at dusk and dawn. Indeed, more recent research indicates that the risk of getting bit by mosquitos that transmit malaria is in the early evening (not at night while you are sleeping).

Day Time Protection

During the daytime, when malaria transmission is low, you will primarily want protection for hikes or outings in nature or if you will be sitting in a room or restaurant near the water. A natural repellent like Badger (Deet Free) offers is probably sufficient.

Early Evening Protection

During the early evening, say 30 minutes or so before the sun sets, and then for the next few hours, likely when you are sitting outside enjoying dinner, you should have stronger protection. This means long pants and sleeves and or effective mosquito protection. You will notice that many restaurants put out mosquito coils at this time of day, if you don’t see any, feel free to ask. Our lived experience is that candles and citronella are *not* effective despite what some folks claim at this time of day!

I’ve found that OFF Mosquito repellent sticks, wipes, or sprays such as this one with “Picardin” are the most effective. Use them on your ankles or exposed body parts. I prefer the sticks because you don’t get it on your hands or in the air. Avoid aerosols if you will be flying…

Sleeping Protection

Napping in our favorite hammock with mosquito netting, bought on Amazon.
Napping in our favorite hammock with mosquito netting, bought on Amazon.

At night, you may not need a mosquito net or protection. If you are staying in an apartment or hotel without a net and it is the higher end (more expensive), you may find that lighting a mosquito coil somewhere in the room is sufficient. For example, in our lodgings at Voky Be, we offer mosquito nets in our ground-floor units but not our upper-floor units, as they rarely get mosquitos.

When camping, be diligent about keeping your tent shut or use a hammock with a built-in net. My absolute favorite camping item is my camping hammock with a built-in mosquito net that folds up small and fits in a day bag! Not only does it let me watch the stars (you do want a fly incase of rain), it also keeps all the bugs away!

You will also find mosquito nets such as the one below sold in most towns; however, if you will be taking a road trip or staying in Airbnbs and you don’t see mosquito nets in the pictures, you may want to bring your own, as while you may not catch malaria while sleeping, even one annoying mosquito can ruin your night’s sleep!

Sunny Days


In addition to packing for diverse weather conditions and mosquito protection, it’s crucial to prioritize sun protection during your trip to Madagascar. The country’s stunning landscapes and outdoor activities often expose travelers to prolonged sun exposure, making sun gear, hats, and sunglasses essential items to include in your packing list.

The intense tropical sun can be harsh, especially in the desert and beach areas of Madagascar. To shield yourself from harmful UV rays, pack wide-brimmed hats that provide shade for your face, neck, and ears. A sun hat not only protects you from sunburn but also helps keep you cool in hot weather. Sunglasses with UV protection are equally important to safeguard your eyes from the bright sunlight.

Alongside hats and sunglasses, consider packing lightweight, breathable clothing that covers your skin to minimize sun exposure. Opt for long-sleeved shirts and pants made from light fabrics that provide both sun protection and comfort. Alison’s preferred sun protection after 5 years in Madagascar is a hat and UV sun clothing, such as this swim shirt, which I have in both short and long-sleeved versions.

When possible, it is highly recommended to avoid using conventional sunscreen or opt for reef-safe sunscreen while visiting Madagascar. Traditional sunscreens often contain chemicals that can harm coral reefs and marine ecosystems when they wash off in the water. All waterways in the south drain into reef systems, so to minimize your impact on the environment, consider using reef-safe sunscreen brands that use mineral-based ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide or, better yet, sun clothes. These alternatives provide effective sun protection while less harmful to coral reefs and marine life. By making this conscious choice, you can help preserve the pristine beauty of Madagascar’s coastal areas and contribute to conserving its delicate ecosystems.

By prioritizing sun protection and including a sun gear, hats, and sunglasses in your packing, you’ll take crucial steps to safeguard your skin and eyes from the sun’s harmful rays and still be able to enjoy the beauty of Madagascar in comfort (no lobster skin)!

Conclusion

Remember, being prepared for weather fluctuations and mosquito protection is essential no matter the season or region you’re visiting. Don’t forget to pack a variety of clothing options suitable for different climates, including lightweight and breathable clothes for the heat, warm layers for cooler evenings, and waterproof gear for rain showers. Additionally, take precautions against sun and mosquito bites by wearing long-sleeved shirts and pants during the heat of the day and or early evenings, using effective repellents, and considering mosquito nets for sleeping arrangements. With these preparations in place, you can embark on your journey with peace of mind and immerse yourself fully in the enchanting landscapes, unique wildlife, and rich culture of Madagascar.

Off-Roading in Madagascar: A Thrilling Adventure

two guys on quads

If you’re an adventure seeker looking for a unique and exciting way to experience Madagascar, then off-roading with a guide is the way to go. Madagascar is known for its rugged terrain, wild landscapes, and challenging roads, making it a perfect destination for off-roading enthusiasts.

Renting a 4×4 in Madagascar costs about $75 per day, to which you need to add food, lodging, a driver, and a professional guide. This is a great option for families or groups who want to explore the country on their own terms, with the help of a knowledgeable driver who knows the terrain and can guide you to the best off-road destinations.

For those who want to up the ante, there are also options for off-roading on motorcycles, buggies, and quads. These vehicles offer a more exhilarating way to explore the rugged landscape of Madagascar, with the added benefit of accessing narrow side roads and trails that a 4×4 might not be able to navigate.

The roads in Madagascar are notoriously insane, with potholes and mud puddles the size of a bus, rocks, and rough terrain that will test even the most experienced drivers. However, the good news is that many of the roads are currently being built out, meaning that now is the time to experience the thrill of off-roading in Madagascar before the roads become more accessible.

If you’re up for a challenge and want to experience the natural beauty of Madagascar in a unique and exciting way, then off-roading with a guide is the way to go. With the help of a knowledgeable guide, you can explore hidden gems, and natural wonders and get a taste of the wild side of this amazing country.

Yves, the owner of Voky Be, is a retired special forces member with extensive experience in technical driving. He has a passion for adventure and loves nothing more than taking experienced drivers and riders on off-road expeditions in Madagascar. With his knowledge of the terrain and his expertise in the local culture, he can create a custom trip that will leave you breathless and exhilarated. Whether you want to explore the rugged countryside in a 4×4, navigate the winding roads on a motorcycle, or tackle the challenging terrain on a buggy or quad, Yves can create an unforgettable adventure that is tailored to your interests and skill level. Contact Voky Be to book your custom off-roading adventure with Yves today.

5 Considerations for Remote Work in Madagascar: A Digital Nomad’s Guide

View from Ankoba Beach Hotel
View from Ankoba Beach Hotel

Working in Paradise


Working remotely in the captivating landscapes of Madagascar presents a unique opportunity for digital nomads seeking a blend of work and adventure. To ensure a successful and fulfilling remote work experience, it’s crucial to consider various factors beyond connectivity and logistics. 

This blog post will explore seven essential considerations for digital nomads in Madagascar, covering everything from reliable telecom providers and internet access to lodging options, safety, and vibrant nightlife.

Alison is at work coaching for Bravely.

Alison is at work coaching for Bravely.

#1 Connectivity

If you will be hopping on calls, sending emails, uploading pictures, or anything else, you will need a reliable connection. The good news is that these can be found, but it’s not always easy. 

Malagasy Telecom Providers

Airtel, Telma, and Orange are the top telecom providers in Madagascar, offering reliable mobile data and internet services. Research their coverage and data plans to choose the most suitable option for your remote work needs.

In rural areas, Airtel sometimes gets the best coverage, as they have the widest coverage; however, they don’t have the best single strength. 

A speed test from my office at Voky Be on Jan 23rd, 2023.

Orange has a hub in Tana. Telma has lines coming in through Majunga and Taolagnaro. We moved back to Madagascar in 2018 because we got reliable data through Telma. We consistently get 20 to 40 MBP for up and download — I run 20 or more coaching calls over Zoom, GoogleMeet, and a proprietary Coaching platform every week! 

WiFi Strength

While mobile data coverage is generally good, the strength of WiFi connections can vary, although this is more the fault of the user (lodging) than the network. Prioritize accommodations with reliable WiFi, and don’t hesitate to inquire with hosts about the quality of their internet connection, ask for speed tests. If they cannot prove it, don’t believe it! 

Power Outages and Backup Solutions: 

Be prepared for occasional power outages in Madagascar, which may impact your ability to work remotely. Keep your devices fully charged, and consider carrying portable chargers or power banks as backup solutions. The capital city of Tana has the most outages, higher-end hotels will have generators, but many residences do not. 

Surge Protection: 

Use surge protectors to protect your electronic devices from unexpected power surges (or power drops) before and after outages. These devices will safeguard your equipment and prevent potential damage. I’ve known several people who didn’t hede this advice and ended up with fried PCs. 

#2 How long and where can you stay?

Visa Requirements and Long-Term Stays

Familiarize yourself with Madagascar’s visa requirements if you plan to stay long-term. The country offers 10-day and 60-day visas, with the possibility of a 30-day extension. Long-stay visas must be obtained from your home embassy before arriving. Read more about this in our FAQ post. 

The pre-covid proposal was accepted to create a 9-month Digital nomad visa, but I’ve not heard a peep about this since the borders have re-opened.

Where should you stay?  

Definitely book lodging for your first few nights and any transit nights. Tana, the Fly-inn Hotel, San Cristobal Boutique Hotel, and Relais de Plateaux (also has an amazing pool and spa) have shuttles, restaurants, and wifi. I’ve stayed in all these hotels, some rooms were better than others for wifi, but all were enough to complete my work. Platforms like Airbnb and Booking.com can help you find suitable accommodations, especially during high season.

If you fly into Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro), where we are, we recommend that you stay with us (Alison & Yves of Voky Be).  The Ankoba Beach hotel has the best wifi connection of the nicer hotels in town, the others; it can be hit or miss.

You can find super cheap lodging in Madagascar; however, you must provide your own internet access, sometimes your own bedding, the WC and shower may be bucket based and so on. With this in mind, the best bet is to find lodging with all “modern” services in place. The investment is worth it and still likely a deal compared to other tropical beach towns!

Safety and Security

While Madagascar is a relatively safe destination, it sometimes has a negative reputation. I think this comes from the fact that most of the population does not speak English or French, and they don’t always notify foreigners of what is or isn’t acceptable. It’s very much a “live and let live” society until you break a rule! 

In this, you cannot count on the police or other services to respond in an emergency, so it’s recommended to travel with a guide outside of the cities and find out where you shouldn’t go. Like most countries, some neighborhoods and regions aren’t safe.

In this, it’s important to exercise general safety precautions. Be mindful of your surroundings, avoid displaying valuable items, and use secure transportation options, especially at night. In fact, most Malagasy do not travel at night (except to clubs). And if you don’t go out in the dark, it’s best to do so in pairs or a small group. 

For this same reason, prioritize accommodations in safe and well-regarded areas that have reliable power and internet!

Cafe Bar Colorado

#3 Nightlife and Social Scene

Malagasy universally love to dance and listen to music. In this, every city pretty much has a night a vibrant social scene with at least a few, if not many, nightlife options. You may also hear music and parties late into the night for special occasions such as weddings and circumcisions! 

In Taolagnaro, Las Vegas (slightly more high-end) and Florida (lots of girls, some working) provide the nightclub scene. La Kabane offers Friday night dancing and the Cafe Bar Colorado a chill vibe for playing billiards or enjoying a cocktail.  

Most towns also have an Expatriate and or English-speaking community. Just look for the white people. Joking. They are not always white; it’s just that some of us stand out more! People of all races, colors, and ethnicities are welcome in Madagascar. If you are lonely or want a better scene, check out Facebook to find local groups.

#4 Adventures & Culture Experiences 

Embrace the local culture by learning about local events, live music performances, and cultural festivals. Engaging with the local community can provide memorable experiences during your time in Madagascar. Depending on the time of the year, you may catch parades, such as for Women’s Day on March 8th or around the carnival and another Catholic holiday. In Taolagnaro, you can visit the Museum at the Fort and or find various workshops where local artisans are doing their work, you can visit the open markets and enjoy walking around town. 

View of Ankoba Beach from the Ankoba Beach Hotel

Ecotourism and Conservation: 

Madagascar is renowned for its unique biodiversity and stunning landscapes. Take advantage of your remote work setup to explore national parks, pristine beaches, and lush rainforests, allowing you to balance work and adventure. The best experiences are usually had when visitors plan for day trips, half-day trips or overnights on the weekend that take you to see wonders while staying in town during the day/week to get work done. 

Participate in responsible ecotourism activities that prioritize the well-being of lemurs and their habitats. Take the opportunity to visit Lemur sanctuaries or national parks that offer guided tours to observe these charismatic creatures up close. Learn about their behavior, conservation efforts, and their critical role in the island’s ecosystem. Choose reputable tour operators (such as Voky Be Tours, which is licensed) and sanctuaries such as Ranomafana, Nahampoana, and Berenty that contribute to the conservation and protection of lemurs and their natural environment. Avoid Zoos. 

In Taolagnaro, consider taking a boat ride through the tranquil mangroves to immerse yourself in the serenity of nature and beautiful views, ending up in Evahatra or Lokaro. Witness the intricate root systems, spot diverse bird species, and marvel at the mangroves’ ecological importance. See the rest of the Vokybe.com website for more!

Capture memorable moments during your encounters with lemurs and other creatures, like chameleons and a huge variety of geckos and butterflies, alongside vast and picturesque landscapes. Madagascar’s diverse wildlife and stunning scenery provide excellent opportunities for nature photography. 

While enjoying boat rides in mangroves and observing lemurs, be mindful of your environmental impact. Respect fragile ecosystems by avoiding littering, refraining from touching wildlife, and following sustainable tourism practices. Promote conservation efforts by spreading awareness about the importance of preserving Madagascar’s unique biodiversity.

#5 Daily Necessities: 

Access to groceries and cooking facilities is essential for longer stays. Major towns in Madagascar have supermarkets, while local markets offer fresh produce. In the Capital of Antananarivo, you can find just about anything; in the smaller towns, some items, such as vegetarian options, can be harder to find. Many people travel with their favorite snacks to supplement what they can buy.

Rice, fresh tomatoes, onions, garlic, leafy greens, seasonal fruit, fresh meats, beans, and pasta are pretty much staples anywhere. Fresh and local foods are very cheap, whereas imported goods, say soy milk or French cheese and wine, might cost *more* than you’d pay at home. Keep this in mind when budgeting.

Consider accommodations with kitchen facilities to maintain a flexible routine.

Pharmacies

Most pharmacies are open during the day only; however, it is pretty standard that each town has a “pharmacy de guard” that is open 24 hours per day, in rotation with other pharmacies. The Local Police and doctors usually know who this is, and or it will be posted on the pharmacy door.

Many of your standard prescriptions can be picked up directly; they may or may not ask to see your prescription. That said, not all things are available in Madagascar, so if you are coming for a 2- or 3-month stay, you should bring everything.

Conclusion: 

Remote work in Madagascar offers an exciting blend of work and exploration. By considering essential factors such as reliable connectivity, accommodation, power outages, visas, safety, what you like to do for fun, and daily necessities, you can optimize your remote work or digital nomad experience in this remarkable country. Embrace the local culture, engage with the community, and make the most of your time in Madagascar, all while maintaining a productivity!